If you can imagine a place so beautiful that merely
remembering it produces visions of such intensity that you feel as if you can
reach out and touch the flowers that grow in a place of natures most elaborate
grandeur. Meadows teaming with life, tumbling blue lupines and delphiniums, powder
blue and purple butterflies dancing, while sapphire blue jays hop on laden
branches of great Redwoods too old for their rings to be counted. Shinning,
silvery granite, smooth and round from glacial erosions, deserts so hot and dry
the sun burns fiercely soon after dawn and canyons deeper and wider than those
of any dreams. This was to be my next adventure and sweeter still it was to be
shared with my husband, Martin. Neither
of us had backpacked a long trail overseas before and for him it would be his
first time above 3000m.
I had somehow convinced my doctor to give me a month’s
supply of Diamox, I think he was resigned to the fact that I was going to go
anyway and at least I was equipped for the trip. The trek was a double one
as I would return home and fly out to Geneva two days later to complete the
Mont Blanc Circuit with the guiding company Exodus.
This trek however was to be planned by myself and had began
way back the previous summer when Martin and I had booked flights with our Virgin
air miles to San Francisco in the USA and thus the tickets were to be a
freebie. I spent the autumn researching
national parks, long distance walks and camp sites. So it was with great
anticipation that Christmas came and went, the computers could be fired up and
we could try to procure a number of coveted wilderness passes for the beautiful
but highly regulated John Muir Trail in California. We sent most of the next two days trying to
connect with the national parks web sites, for they all had different rules and
booking procedures. At least we had five days arranged in two parts.
This was
only a small part of the 200 mile long trail, which takes about two weeks. Most walkers come off the trail after a week
to re supply, either by posting themselves a parcel to pick up at a post office
or buying food a local store. The little towns on the eastern edge of the
Sierra Nevada’s are well geared up for this as a large section of the Pacific
Crest trail is also located along this amazing chain of mountains. It’s an
adventures paradise.
Although we were to spend five days on the John Muir trail,
we decided to start with an acclimatisation walk at Hecht Hechy reservoir to
the west of Yosemite National Park. Arriving in San Francisco the air was fresh
and pleasant, with the usual sea mist that shrouds the coastal regions of
California. Whenever one trails west by air you gain time and arrive after a
long journey to find that life has gone on in its own particular way, so that
it appears much earlier than your body would like it to be. Not wanting to
waist the opportunity of seeing the famous waterfront, located near to our hotel
(another exciting opportunity to use saved hotel points at a Holiday Inn), we
popped out for a wander and to find something not too fishy to eat.
Another problem with travelling west is that you tend to
wake at about 3am, due to jet lag and your bodies reluctance to change its
sleeping patterns too quickly. The general rule is to allow a day for each hour’s
time difference. As we had woken so early it was good to be getting off before
the heat of the day became too oppressive. We shopped for gas cylinders and
provisions, a number of these were from the camping and outdoor shop as we
needed to have plenty of lightweight, imperishable packet foods. If you have
ever tried the delights of Mountain House freeze dried meals you will at first
be entertained by the luxurious names given
to them; chicken teriyaki, chilli Mac, beef stroganoff, macaroni and even blueberry cheesecake. We tried them
all!
Most of our supplies were pasta, freeze dried rice , powered
milk, coffee and energy bars, but there were biscuits, crackers ,fruit, packets
of oats and hot chocolate. Everything was about weight or rather more how
little you could get away with carrying. Even walking from the supermarket to
the car was energy sapping in the searing, California sun (it was also to be
named as Americas 3rd hottest summers on record. Our afternoon was spent sleeping under a tree
in a park and the evening fighting off mosquitoes in a grove of giant sequoia
trees, before making our way to a little motel where I insisted on leaving the
door open all night.
It was great to be off in the morning, making our way to
Hecht Hechy reservoir, picking up our wilderness permit we were informed that
we could not camp in the site near the car park that night, and would therefore
have to take all our camping gear, clothes, food and water with us instead of
just a day pack. There was one more problem, we had to walk all the way along
the reservoir to a designated camping area located about 4 miles (6.5Km) from
the dam. Loading the rucksacks at
O’Shaughnessy Dam, we knew the day would be hot but had not anticipated the
106F (41.1C). The trail is striking, with its blue waters reflecting the deep
cliffs of the valley slides. Shortly after crossing the dam one passes the base
of Wapama Falls, but we didn't spend long taking in its cooling spray as we
still had a long way to go. It wasn't
long before we had drunk our water and were looking for the next waterfall on
the map.
It’s a magnificent feeling to find water when you really
need it. We climbed up into the rocks high above a rested for the thirty
minutes that it takes for a couple of iodine tablets to work. Even though the
water looked pure and we were very thirsty, it was not worth taking the risk of
drinking contaminated water and suffering the effects of amoebic dysentery.
Water in the wild may be very clean and have straight from a glacier, but there
are usually large or small animals living in the area and they often
contaminate the water supply with worm eggs, amoebic cysts, viruses or bacteria
which can infect and cause severe diarrhoea or even blindness. Therefore it is
sensible to treat water by either using a iodine or chlorine tablets, these are
much lighter than carrying a water filter system and a larger volume of water
can be safely cleaned by this method. These can be purchased from most camping
shops and are by far the cheapest method to use. It is a myth that you need to
boil water for long periods of time even at high altitude. Most bacteria and
viruses are killed by temperatures as low as 65F (149C), so boiling for a
minute is fine and can be used in cooking. Even cysts will be killed in this
way, but it’s often where you collect drinking water that is most important.
Try to find a clean source of fast running water, that is above a trail and not
close to the presence of animals, whether wild or livestock.
If you must take
water from still, such as a lake or pool, always look out for the presence of
Blue-green algae which can produce toxins that can make you sick. Take the
water from deeper down in the lake and pick a spot where it has been unlikely
that humans or animals have swum in it. Hopefully you won’t catch anything
nasty because if you do, you won’t feel like lugging a rucksack up and over the
mountains for two weeks. It don’t take long for these simple organisms to
rapidly spread and cause you to become very weak, passing on the organism to
others often in the process.
The sun was quite relentless, dazzling and illuminating the
glistening waters of the reservoirs surface so that it sparkled like millions
of stars in the night sky. The imposing cliff faces polished and as glorious as
any geological theatre. In 1913 an act of congressed was passed to allow a
reservoir and construct a dam in the Hetch Hetchy valley which within Yosemite
National Park. The dam was completed in 1923 and serves 2.4 million
Californians, with both drinking water and generated electricity. This huge,
enigmatic valley was sculpted by the Hetch Hetchy glacier around 10,000 years
ago and was much large than the one in Yosemite Valley. It is for this reason
that environmentalists have lobbied for its removal for many years.
The waters of the reservoir twisted and turned into the
distance, filling the yawning chasm. Heat like that of a blast furnace, brutal
in the quietness of this private place seemed only to add to our solitude. With
great effort we made it to the camping area, beside the cool waters of a
mountain stream, making its way to join the great waters below in Hetch Hetchy.
Martin who had all already nearly given up on several occasions that day, was
now covering himself in hatfuls of the cool, clear water. We put up the tent,
although there really was no need it being much to hot to sleep in it and then
went about boiling some water to add to our first delightful freeze dried meal.
Although they state that they are suitable for two, do not be taken in, for if
you do sharing becomes more like a game of chess, each participate egger to win
the upper hand over the contents after a whole day of walking and carrying in
extreme heat.
We made plans to leave camp at five, and try to avoid the midday
heat. Even as we put our bags into our vehicle the sun was already
oppressive at only eleven o'clock. Yosemite Valley was not far away but it was
clear that Martin would not be up for a long hike at even grater altitude the
following day, so we decided to take a quick look at the sights in the valley
and leave the busy tourist route for the quieter Tuolumne meadows at approximately
8619 feet (2627 m) elevation.
Yosemite Valley is indeed extremely beautiful.
Views along the Merced River are quite magnificent, Bridalveil Falls, Yosemite
Falls, Sentinel Meadow and Yosemite Chapel are all excellent spots to view the
valley. But it has to be the great cathedral of El Capitan that is the most
stunning of all. A gigantic monolith of vertical rock, of some 3000 ft (900m),
that continues to challenge rock climbers from all over the world. Known as “The Rock chief” in Native American,
it was similarly named by European Americans when they first visited the area
in 1851 and given the commanding title of El Capitan. We picnicked at the foot
of El Cap feeding the naughty navy blue jays and friendly ground squirrels.
Then we left to seek out a permit for a couple of nights at Tuolumne Meadows camp site, stopping to view the stunning views at Glacier Point.
We had intended to begin the first part of The John Muir
Trail in Yosemite valley and from Glacier Point one can see what we would have
trekked through in the two days that it would taken to get to Tuolumne. Half
Dome, dominates the seen and a vast pavement of glaciated rock delights the
imagination. Here one can imagine the fate of many a pioneer as the wagons of a
bygone age desperately looked for safety from winter snow storms that ravaged
the region.
After an evenings stroll at Tuolumne, we felt ready to seek
out the interior and made our way up through cool pine woods and sweet scented
flower meadows, where winter snows were only just receding. The dappled light
of forest gave way to the grandeur of a stupendous amphitheatre of mountains.
Cathedral Peak, dominating the views to the north and the great pass of Tuolumne,
near the High Sierra camp. Form here we watch as forest fires engulfed ancient
Ponderosa Pines and giant sequoia alike. Smoky clouds filled an otherwise
radiantly blue sky and proof that this was indeed a very dangerous wilderness.
The return trip of about 13 miles took most of the day, but we were now
satisfied that we had the stamina for backpacking in the cooler air of higher
altitude. But was altitude it’s self to be our enemy?
The following day we
managed a walk of 14 miles to Glen Aulin, a peaceful walk along the Tuolumne
River heading west to where it meets Hetch Hetchy. Here it was easy to imagine Native American
Indians on horseback looking down from above the great cliff sides. This
celestial world so steeped in history, yet celebrating its scenery and
wildlife.
Mono Lake is a huge
expanse of milky water that shimmers quietly on the wide, hot bed of the valley
floor, it was here that we travel to on the eastern side of Yosemite, for it
was time to wash our clothes and get ready for another adventure. We stayed in
a motel for the night and refreshed ourselves both mentally and physically. I
think the motel manager had probably seen some things before, but washing
strewn over the car roof was a different one to the norm.
Still tired but happy we picked up our wilderness passes for
the morning and a three day backpacking adventure along the John Muir trail
Donahue pass and through the lovely Lyell Canyon. Here in summer the flat river
makes its way through meadows teaming with flowers and wildlife. The area has
an abundance of wildlife, both flora and fauna. Great forests boarder the trail
full of lodgepole pine, Sugar pine and Hemlock. Black bears, ground squirrels,
Mule deer, Coyotes, mountain lions, Californian Wolverines, Marmots and many
beautiful birds can be seen. Tiny creatures are also welcome sights, Pika,
shrews, bats of many varieties, Chipmunks, otters, snakes and delicate
hummingbirds. They often seem relaxed in your presents and collect together by
the waters edge to share drink as the air becomes hot or wait in quite
seclusion in the cool dappled forest, covered by think green ferns. If you
remain silent you will see many things, but it is not always wise to stay so
hushed. For here live wild animals; bears and mountain lions, who although not
parentally aggressive will attack if frightened or caught unaware. It is wise
therefore to walk in small groups, talk to one another or carry a bear bell to
let your presents be know as your walk through thicket and tall trees.
In a
cool spot Martin accidentally sidestepped the main trail briefly, catching the
unwanted attention of a Rattle Snake hidden deep in the moist grass. He didn't
wander off the trail again.
Flowers are a highlight here too paintbrush, penstemon,
mountain pride, marsh marigold, butterweed, alpine columbine, lupine, summit lilies
and many brilliant patches of alpine flowers cling to the rocks of high passes
to delight the eyes. Many of the native plants attracting brilliant coloured
butterflies and hummingbirds with their long tubular flowers.
Passing glistening brooks and carefully making our way
across larger obstacles suck as streams boggy patches and narrow difficult
climbs we reached the place that we had
intended to camp for the night. They are not camp site as such, but areas of
flattened ground, made dusty by wearily backpackers seeking to end a happy but
tiring day.
The mosquitoes had not let us rest for lunch, so by now we were
content just to stop, but the spot was remarkably beautiful, with only the
sound of a tumbling waterfall, it was bliss. Here you must always carry your
food in bear barrels (a robust, plastic container with a tight fitting lid,
that items of food may be carried and stored in). Items left in cars have to be
removed and stored in a large metal box beside the road and food, clothing and
other items must be stored at least 100m away from your tent. We had packed
light but still had to bring things such as a spade for burring human waist and
a tent, for shelter, as a bear deterrent and to keep the mosquitoes from eating
you alive! Here we were sleeping at
about 10,000ft (3,000m) and the night had passed peacefully so we were off as
soon as the sun came up for another 10 mile day.
Unfortunately as I was taking
Diamox to help me adjust to the altitude I had to spend a lot of time stopping
for a quick pee. It wasn't a problem here as there are so few people on the
trail. Once you leave a trail head you are almost in total solitude. We were
even asked to keep a lookout for missing people who were assumed dead by their
families having not checked with home for at least a month. Trekkers and climbers
had a special way of being kind here without being intrusive, they would stop
and ask if all was well and perhaps ask if you could take their photo if they
were alone. They all had a story and plenty of time to share an experience or a
moment of human spirit unleashed and full of the gladness that contact
brings.
Mount Lyell was still covered in a deep blanket of winter
snow, the tiny lakes from below were surrounded by pink aquilegia and blue
alpine toadflax. My attention was drawn to the flowers deep colours, but
feeding from these remarkable plants were tiny hummingbirds, quite unimaginable
up here at 11,000ft. They danced and hovered in delight, taking nectar from
each small tubular flower and moving on to the next with such precision that
they never appeared to touch any part of the plant.
We never made it up Mount Lyell to see Thousand Island lakes
from above or pass between their sparkling, transparent waters. Martin suddenly
became quite perplexed, the altitude troubled his confused mind and sent him
quickly down the mountain, when we were only a few metres from the top of the
pass. He didn't stop there, in fact I have never seen him move so fast before.
We covered nearly 20 miles before tea, and just made it to camp to be told we
could camp in the backpacker area.
I'm not sure if it was Martin hearing the Bear Dogs being
released into the forest or overhearing rangers talk about bears as he visited
the wash rooms that evening, but we both were quite certain that something very
large had made a visit to our tent that night. I watched in the star light, a
dreamlike combination of silent amusement and terror as Martin gathered his
sleeping bag tightly around his face until all that could be seen of him was
his nose. Neither said a word, why would we be here if we hadn't wanted to
experience being close to nature? But perhaps sometimes one can be a little too
close.
Now we had a whole day spare once again, so out came the
maps and a route up the Tioga Pass was chosen. The Hoover wilderness sits along
the Pacific Crest, between Yosemite and the arid terrain of Mono Lake on the
eastern side of the range. It is a primitive wilderness area of great beauty,
there are few trees and many flowers. Visitors must be in possession of a
wilderness pass at all times, being careful where camp fires are lit and keeping
dogs on a lead. It was funny to see a trekking dog here, I really had to look
twice. Complete with his backpack and slide panniers, to carry his food and not
one but two pairs of specially constructed dog boots. He really did need those
boots, it was rough rock for any bare feet, but with a wag in his tail, he was
off and enjoying the trip like a real trekker.
Passing several small crystal clear tarns, with names like
Hummingbird Lake and turquoise lake we were amazed at how clear the air had
stayed this past week. Each day hotter than the last and the skies blue as a
field of forget-me-nots. The scenery was as delicious as the as the weather. Silver
mountains with helping of vanilla ice-cream topped with boulder nuts and the
sweet ripe fruits of summer pump enough for any hungry bear. For this was bear
country, but it was not a bear that we were to encounter next, but a much shyer
creature.
It was lovely to sit wearing just a T-shirt and shorts
eating sandwiches and cake, but we always had our eyes and ears focused on what
might be watching us, we didn't want “Yogi” to invite himself. The little lake
was encompassed by rounded rocks, patches of snow, still bright and debris
free. A steady light trickled though tiny mid-day clouds and marmots played
energetically, unaware that they were being watched by anything other than us.
Sometimes the eye plays tricks and shadows slip quickly passed our peripheral
vision, so that we are unsure of what we have seen. It must be a throw back to
times when hunting was of prime importance to us and as the hunted we needed
home in on this sense. We saw in each others eyes, without the need to speak
that the hunter was indeed close by. For watching us now was a mountain lion, whose
golden shadow had slipped behind a rock. It was only there for those brief
seconds, just time for her to sum up her chances and ease away back into the wild,
from where she came. Not even long enough for us to adjust to another
encounter. Passing quickly before us, a humming bird no bigger than a locus,
few into an aquilegia flower beside me. I tried in vain to photograph it, but
it was gone and we were on our way once again.
Once again we crossed over the crest of the Sierra Nevada’s
and down to June Lakes resort where we
would have rejoined the civilized world after leaving the John Muir trail, had we
continued with our planned walk two days earlier. Now we enjoyed the hotel that
we had booked during the previous spring and left the following morning for
Mammoth Mountain and the devils post pile. Here the area is full of stunning
mountains and numerous lakes. Walking was a delight now that I was fully adjusted
to the altitude and we visited lakes with names such as Gem Lake, Shadow Lake
and silver lake. Our final day in the
Sierras was spent enjoying the spectacular scenery at Mt Whitney (the highest
mountain in the contiguous United States at an elevation of 14,505ft (4421m)
and is where the John Muir trail ends).
The second part of our adventure was now about to begin. Stopping
at the apply known Furnace Creek visitors centre to check that our annual
National Parks visitors pass was valid for here too, we were struck by the
searing desert heat . At 126F (52C) it was the hottest place I have ever stood.
We drove on to Dante’s view 5000ft above the desert floor, Badwater basin is
the lowest point in North America and most probably retains most of the records
for the highest temperatures! You can
walk in this national park but this would be foolhardy in the middle of August.
As it was we had our minds set on the North side of The Grand Canyon in
Arizona. The canyon its self is 18 miles long and a mile wide, quite a stunning
and almost mind blowing sight when you first see it.
We approached from the north (3000m), which is in fact 1000m
higher than the southern side at 2000m (7000ft) and has an alpine environment. After
two days of deserts, desert mountains and thunder clouds reaching high into the
summer skies it seemed quite astonishing to make our way through an alpine
forest. This forest is in fact an island of high green alpine meadows and pine
trees, which are home to the Kiabab squirrel, know locally as the silver ghost
and can only be found in this unique area of the USA. Here there are also deer,
turkey, skunk, lizards, Arizona Condor and Swifts.
We arrived in the middle of a huge thunderstorm, which are
in fact an almost daily occurrence during the months of July and August. They
do not tend to last very long but are savage and we were advised not to put up
the tent or approach the canyon rim during the storm. The North Rim camp ground
is in a very exposed spot, located near Bright Angel Point and many blackened
trees can be seen near the edge of the rim. The general rule we where told is
jump as far away from the edge if you feel your hair standing on end as this is
a sign of an impending lightening strike, due to a charge building near you. We
happily stayed in the car for half an hour!
Only having two days to explore the area, but we managed to
take in the trails at Bright Angel, Uncle Jim and the Kiabab trail as well as visiting
the trails at Point Imperial and Roosevelt to the north. The next morning we
set off early to beat the storms that seemed to gather around midday and
encountered a family of wild turkey, skunk, porcupine and deer. We escaped the
storm, just making back in time before the most incredible act of nature could
be witnessed first hand. From Point Imperial we viewed the mighty Colorado
River as it carved its way though history, making the most stunning canyon on
earth. Although we didn't venture down to the south rim, it being 215 miles and
a 5 hour drive from the north side we did enjoy the delights of Bryce Canyon
and returned via the intolerably hot Los Vegas. An adventure in its self for
me!
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